![]() ![]() These are adhesive tapes that adhere to the balancer and offer accurate timing numbers so that you can use a standard timing light to check maximum advance. The simplest way to compensate is to use an MSD timing tape. But if you need to set your initial timing at a figure greater than what is offered on the timing tab, you have to guess, which is never good. A typical timing tab offers numbers up to 14 to 16 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). This works great as long as you are only setting initial timing and only if you can line up the marks from the timing tab on the engine to the TDC mark on the balancer. ![]() A normal timing lightflashes the instant the Number One spark plug fires. Jeff Smith: What you are using is what is commonly referred to as a dial-back timing light. There’s probably an easy answer but it escapes me! Thanks When I push the button, the timing moves but I’m not sure I know exactly what’s really going on here. Another tip with a hi performance ignition system is when purchasing replacement Caps/Rotors is to go with a set from a known “Good Brand’ which uses Brass Cap Terminals, not cheap Aluminium terminals.I just bought a new, digital timing light to replace my old original light. Once you have finished checking you can simply fill the hole in the Cap with silicon RTV taking care not to let any excess Silicon inside the cap.In my experience this Air Gap problem is relatively new (within the last 10-15 years) and wasn’t a common problem with most O.E.M Caps and Rotors, but appears more common with a lot of replacement parts nowīeing sourced offshore -( its really let the buyer beware… if you aware there could be problem you can simply check it by the above method. Another thing which affects this Air Gap is not only the Radial Clearance but also Ive seen quite a difference on the vertical alignment between the different brands….which also has a big influence on the Air Gap. Anything up to 3mm Air Gap is acceptable as long as the Phasing is correct. The Air Gap is easier to check by removing all the Plugs and turning engine over by hand until the Rotor Tip comes into view at which point you should be able to see ( with a good torch) both the Tip and the Cap Terminal and using a twist drill be able to measure the Air Gap between the 2. Its quite an easy operation to perform these x2 checks on both the Rotor and the Cap by simply drilling a hole in the Cap as close as possible to any one of the Hi Tension Terminals which would allow you to clearly see the Phasing and Air Gap. This much of an Air Gap can seriously effect the Spark Performance especially if your running high compression and a big cam on the street with lots of low rpm use. and a Cap with a Large Terminal P.C.D then its very likely you could end up with up to 6mm of Air Gap between your Rotor Tip and the Cap Terminals. Of these 2 components… if you unlucky enough to have a Rotor with a ‘Short Tip’ length measured between the centre of the Rotor and the end of the Tip…. There appears to be a huge variation in dimensions closely followed by Rotor/Cap Phasing… and to a lesser extent, but still important if your chasing the best possible ignition performance is to check the Air Gap between the Rotor Tip and the Cap Terminals. Forgot to mention the first thing to check is T.D.C #1 exactly matches 0 degs on Harmonic Balancer…. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |